South Island ▷
Marlborough is where most people enter the South Island, stepping off the ferry at Picton with a fresh set of nerves and a full tank. Picton itself is pretty sleepy, but grab a toastie from Picton Toastie Lords on the waterfront and you're off to a good start. There's no freedom camping in town, so I'd either head out to Waikawa Bay way or push the half hour toward Blenheim to the Wairau Diversion freedom camping site. If you want something genuinely memorable, the boat-access lodges through Picton are worth a night out of the van. The holiday park options near the marina are solid if you just need a base.
Marlborough grows about 70% of NZ's grapes and the Sauvignon Blanc is world class. My honest pick is a guided wine tour over biking. You get into parts of the wineries bikes can't reach, the guides are actual winemakers, and you're not arriving anywhere sweaty. The RANKERS promo code gets you a discount on those wine tours, which takes the edge off nicely. Best place to stay for this is the Diversion freedom camping site - good fishing at dusk, mountain views when it's clear, and tour pickup runs from there. Spring Creek Holiday Park is the pick for full facilities, next to a seriously clear river.
Everyone heads to Picton for the Sounds, but I'd go to Havelock instead. Less boat traffic, no big ferries, and the scenery is just as good. The Pelorus Sound Mail Run Cruise out of Havelock is my pick for the area - it's a proper working boat doing its rounds, not a tourist production. The RANKERS promo code works on those cruises too. While you're based there, the holiday park in Havelock is handy and there's good kayaking in the sounds if you want to get on the water yourself.
Don't blow past Pelorus Bridge on the drive through. If it hasn't rained recently the river runs this brilliant aqua colour and the swimming is genuinely great. Do the short loop to the swing bridge, it's easy and worth it. The campsite gets hectic in peak season, but a quieter swim is always on at Totara Flat just down the road.
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