Hokitika

My Favourite West Coast Town

Hokitika is probably my favourite town on the West Coast. It's got a proper local feel without being too rough around the edges. The food scene is the real drawcard for me. The Hokitika Sandwich Company is genuinely iconic, best sandwiches I've had in NZ, puts Subway to shame in every possible way. And Fat Pipi Pizza down by the beach is worth a stop too, some toppings you won't find anywhere else.

Get to the Gorge Early

The Hokitika Gorge walk is the main event and it earns its reputation. That glacial water colour is genuinely something else. It's an easy amble, couple of swing bridges, about an hour or so all up. But, like Pancake Rocks, the tour buses pile in here during the day, so go early or go late and you'll have a much better time. One thing to know: if there's been heavy rain, the water goes brown. Worth checking before you make the drive out. There's also spots to swim, just make sure the river is looking calm and sedate before you get in.

A Quieter Alternative

If you want a gorge without the crowds, the Cesspool Gorge walk is a solid alternative. Two hours return, a bit more involved the closer you get in, but the water colour is just as amazing and I'm pretty confident the tour buses don't bother with this one. There's a swimming hole in there too, handy for keeping the sandflies at bay.

Sort Your Sleeping

There's a good spread of camping options around Hokitika, including a freedom camping spot at the local hotel and a farmstay option a bit out of town if you're after something quieter. The glowworm dell is close by too if you haven't seen glowworms yet. It's free and easy to access, though it's close to town and can feel a bit odd. Not my first pick, but if you're a glowworm newbie it'll do the job.