Mount Cook

Weather First, Everything Else Second

Mount Cook is the big show. And like any big show, it only runs in clear weather. When the mountains are out, I had no idea they could be so steep, so imposing. When it's claggy, much of what's on offer disappears behind a curtain. So if you've got any flexibility at all, keep an eye on the forecast and plan your nights here around a clear day. It's the one place in New Zealand where that extra bit of planning pays the most.

Get Into the Valley Early

The Hooker Valley Track is what 95% of visitors do, and for good reason. Flat, accessible, gobsmack stunning. You'll likely hear the rumble of distant avalanches as you walk. Start as early as you can muster though, because the track gets a steady stream of people from mid-morning onwards. The Tasman Valley is the other one people skip and they really shouldn't. The road is fine for all campervan sizes, there's a glacier lake lookout just 10-15 minutes from the carpark, and the view of NZ's longest glacier is genuinely grand. Don't bother with the Blue Lake track though, it's not really blue and not really a lake.

Sleep in the Middle of It

Staying at White Horse Hill Campground is one of the real advantages of having a campervan up here. It's the only overnight option right in the heart of the hiking area, so you can head out before sunrise while everyone else is driving in from down the valley. Book it well in advance as it's one of DOC's busiest, but they'll let you shift your dates up to 2 days out at no charge, which is perfect for weather-watching. If you want full facilities and a view that also takes in the Tasman Valley side, Glentanner Park is a solid option with a similarly flexible cancellation policy.

Up in the Air

When it's clear, getting up above the mountains on a scenic flight changes your understanding of the place entirely. There are both fixed wing and helicopter options out of here, and the RANKERS promo code gets you 10% off either. Worth it on a good day. And at night, the dark sky out here is something else. I had no idea so many stars existed until I stood in this valley.