South Island ▷ Southland ▷
Papatowai is genuinely one of my favourite spots in the whole country, and I don't say that lightly. It's tiny, it's country, and it has a couple of things that make it worth slowing right down for. The drive through here is also the most scenic stretch of the main Catlins highway, so don't be rushing it.
First stop has to be the Lost Gypsy Gallery. Blair, the guy behind it, is an inventor and tinkerer, and in a world of doom-scrolling on phones, this place is a proper delight. You'll walk out smiling. Then there's Peakes Kitchen, which recently won NZ's best burger award and the pies are mean as too. Just watch the hours. They're only open 4 to 5 days a week, 11am to 3pm, so it's a lunch thing. Plan around it.
The DOC campsite at Papatowai is decent enough. It can get boggy in winter and there are better options nearby, but the low tide beach explore makes it worthwhile if you end up here. The main highway section around Papatowai is the prettiest bit of the whole Catlins drive, so if you're going to take your time anywhere, this is the place to do it.
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